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Sent to newsletter subscribers on August 6, 2024

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It can be difficult to know that you've found a hidden gem even when you're right on top of one. I'm talking about the sorts of places–speakeasies behind bookshelves, 100 year old sandwich shops in subway stations–that thrive in "best kept secrets" articles. They're often hidden in plain sight because they usually don't feel special until their significance is explained to you by a local expert or journalist. Or, more likely these days, a TikTok person. However, I recently found one of these hidden treasures, and it was obvious from the moment I stepped inside that I had found something special.
I've been told by several fashion experts that American knitting mills are essentially extinct, and I was under the impression that the few that still exist are dying. But two weeks ago, I stumbled across a website for a sweater factory in Brooklyn that claimed to make some of the best cashmere sweaters in the USA. It was called Simply Knits. I reached out to the owners, they responded right away, and we set up a meeting at the factory. Soon, I was on a train heading deep into Brooklyn.
As I got closer, I checked Google Street View to get a sense of the building I'd be looking for. I was hit with a shot of adrenaline when I realized the address I was headed towards was a nondescript townhouse—no sign, no awning, nothing to suggest it was a thriving business. Maybe my industry friends were right, and I was heading to a dying business, or worse –– I couldn't shake the feeling that I might be walking into a scam.
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Even though it looked like I was at a house, the map told me I had arrived. I approached the building, squeaked the door open, and hesitantly stepped inside, hoping I wasn't walking into someone's living room. Instead, I was surprised to find a highly organized operation with spotless floors and a bustling interior.
The steady whir of industrial knitting machines, positioned right at the entrance, had a calming effect—there was something reassuring about their synchronized rhythm, a sign of a healthy operation. The space was snug, but well-lit.
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In one corner, there was a shipment of human-sized socks for a major sportswear brand's ad campaign. In front of them, a woman carefully steamed a fresh sweater on a massive perforated table.
Another worker led me to the co-owner's office. Hatice, a Turkish immigrant, said welcome, shook my hand, and met my eyes with a piercing gaze. It was the type of look that says, you'd better be on your game.
As much as I tried to hide my naivete, she was sharp, and could tell that I was new. Nonetheless, she sat with me for a solid 30 minutes and spoke to me respectfully as if I were a potential partner. She was straightforward but friendly – it was nice. Even though they were too expensive for me, she encouraged me to film as much as I wanted.
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After a quick tour, we agreed to reconnect again when I had grown my margins, and she left me with two remarks:
1. "Know your shit, because these people [other factories] will screw you over"
Even though she was not-so-subtly calling out my greenness, it didn't feel belittling or accusatory. It was genuine advice, as if she were a general sending me to battle, hoping I would return.
When I asked her how she's survived in this business despite the flight of demand overseas, she said,
2. "Stay small and take few risks."
This is how she and her husband have built a healthy business, through consistency and patience. I've been frustrated that entrepreneurial culture is so very all-or-nothing these days: go big, go fast, or go home. This mentality seems to have skewed our understanding of entrepreneurship, prioritizing equity value over the quality of products. Maybe it's always been like that, I can't say for sure. Either way, like Hatice, I want to make high quality products with a healthy cash flow so my business, and our products, can last for a long time.
I won't make sweaters with Simply Knits just yet, but I have narrowed my search to a few factories that share her passion and focus. My commitment to vibrant, simple menswear is as strong as ever, and the longer this takes, the better the sweaters will look in the end!
Finn
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